The trip home (May 5: Homer to Haines Jct.)

So I've been remiss in writing this thing. I'm at home now, having made basically a straight shot back. It's a personality quirk of mine. I'm more than happy to pursue most activities for as long as they take or as I want, but when I decide it's over, I need to stop doing it pretty much immediately. When I decided I was done with the trip, I made a straight run back with two stops (aside from sleep)

I left Kodiak on the overnight ferry to Homer the night of the 4th. Per my usual, I sneaked into the shower area (reserved for the cabin-renting passengers but lightly guarded) and cleaned up. I then slept, and woke up as we were pulling into Homer. After another illicit shower (take them when you can) I went down to the cargo hold and got the truck together.

Off the boat, I headed north up the Kenai, back toward Anchorage. I got what I think are some of the best (or at least the most evocative of Alaska and my impressions thereof) photographs of the trip.



They really capture Alaska's beauty and mystery with the mist covering the mountains. Alaska was more populated and tamed than I had thought it would be, and the fact that the mist was receding from the lake and slowly uncovering the scene fit well with that impression as well.

As god apparently does not like Whittier, I drove north through Anchorage to cut west on the Seward/GlenAllen highway. On my way, I stopped in at a thrift shop at Palmer. If you're driving up 1, gps will tell you to take 1 all the way to Wasilla and then cut right. The old highway goes through Palmer, and provides a more interesting drive (with less ruts as well). I checked the vinyl selection, only to have the shop owner tell me that she'd sold her good albums to some guy who "made bowls and art out of them." Ouch. Like there are too many decent albums around, and not enough other stuff in the world out of which to make bowls.

As I was on my way out, I asked her if there was another shop in town that might have some records. She pointed me in the direction of one, and cautioned me not to get ripped off by the owner of the other store, as he was "kind of a jew." This was said with such a conspiratorial sneer that I thought for a minute she was joking. Then I realized she wasn't. I'm not a particularly religious person, but my background is jewish and protestant. I actually started laughing at the inanity of the statement, and remarked "As it turns out, so am I. And I can't quite say I'm down with that expression." I highly doubt that some sort of breakthrough was achieved on her end, but I felt better for not having let it slide. I've seldom encountered racism in my life, aside from getting hassled for being white in the late 80s and early 90s in New York (Ahh, Dinkins era New York....) So this was a bit of a shock. I left, and I got over it pretty quickly, but it was a good reminder that not everyone was as open and welcoming as I had encountered previously in the trip.

The rest of the trip was uneventful. I saw a lot of moose, which despite being a state-wide pain in the ass, are still pretty beautiful. I did not however find a stupid sticker with "AK" in it. The little oval touristy stickers. Once I found out that most of the little carved wooden bears in the shops are made in Malaysia or China, I lowered my expectations on the souvenir front.

Pics of the ride

May 2 - May 4 (Kodiak)

I got to Kodiak in the afternoon on the 2nd. Actually it was 7 or so, but the sun sets at about 11, so the afternoon seems really long. There are three main points on the island, connected by about 100 miles total of roads. I had debated the best way to see the island, and that gets into a larger question that I'd asked myself a few times on the trip. What is an adventure? I'm sure if you wander into the wilderness and end up dead, you probably had an adventure. If you never go past the tourist information center and guided tours, less of an adventure. My goal was to have an adventure, but I was limited somewhat by certain constraints. First, I was (and largely still am) alone. This means my margin for error is much, much smaller than if I were with someone or a group. I have a winch and a locker, but my intent is not to use them, it's to have them in reserve in case they're needed. Second, I had had the bad luck to have the truck broken into in California. Added to that was the fact that several people I met had told me Kodiak was not the type of place where I could leave my gear in the truck at a trailhead and wander off on my own. So that left me with the need to not get crazy in terms of taking the truck into the bush, and not leaving it too far behind for fear of another theft. I think I'm drawing a good middle line between conservatism and adventure. You may be sensing some regret. I would like to have gone a little further into the wilderness, but I'm glad that I have done the gnarly part of the trip and all the adventures before it without injury to me or the truck. So I don't regret the decisions I've made, although I do overanalyze them (as I do most things in my life). Now in blog form.

My goal with Kodiak was to see the main points on the island, and then to find a place to be on my own for a few days as a cap to the trip. It hadn't been my intention earlier in the trip, but that plan had evolved as I got closer to the island. I had pictured it as a wild place, and to be sure it largely is. 2/3 of the island is wild, accessible only by boat or plane. Either of these would involve both leaving my truck behind and large quantities of money. So they were out.

I was directed toward Anton Larsen bay as a place where "I wouldn't see another soul for days." well that sounded pretty good. I got off the boat on Saturday and drove out toward Chiniak, where I camped on a beach for the evening.


I know it looks chaotic, but there is a method to the madness. I have gear in the back right corner, gear in the front left corner, and my sleeping bag on a diagonal from back left to front right. On that I have my gun, my duffel, and my bow, along with the tent. That stuff goes in the front seat, leaving a sleeping space in the back. Takes 4 minutes. The tent is roomier, but in bear country or just when I don't feel like putting it up, it's nice to be able to crash in the truck.

The next day, I drove up to Pasagshak, where I passed the Kodiak rocket launch site, a number of buffalo, and a small community of surfers. I stopped and chatted a while. The New York license plate was, as usual, a hit.




Following Pasagshak, I went up to Anton Larsen bay, assuming that I'd find an unspoiled wilderness where I could set up camp by a bay and be for several days. What I found was a parking lot next to a boat launch, and at the very end of the road, a shooting range (three signs with more bullet holes than I've ever seen) and covered with spent cartridges and beer cans. Not the utopia I was searching for. I got pretty frustrated at this point, and decided to go back to Chiniak, where I had pulled up before venturing into some of the gnarlier trails at the end of the road. I went down a few, and ended up finding a site away from people, where the U.S. army had set up some concrete bunkers overlooking the ocean.


The next morning, the fog blew off and I had much better views.


Again, it was my intent to stay at Chiniak for a few days without human contact. The first night I set up shop in this beautiful remote spot, I was still on that plan. But when I finished my dinner and settled down for the night, I was struck by a thought: "It's time to go home." It was surprising, considering the original plan and how much I was enjoying being on my own. I thought about it a bit more and still had the same conclusion. I'm not even sure what went into the decision. I wasn't as far out of the way as I would have liked. There were ATV trails nearby and I had heard that people did occasionally take trucks through there. I don't think that's what spurred the thought though. I think I was just ready to turn around. So I booked passage on the boat off the island on the night of the 4th. It was good to take a night trip, as it allowed me to sleep and the seas were much calmer than they had been on the way out.

Kodiak pics 1

Kodiak pics 2

Saturday, May 2 (Homer to Kodiak)

It's been a while since I updated. I'm in Edmonton at the moment. Kodiak didn't have a robust techonological infrastructure, and since then I've been largely out of contact.

After the issues with the truck, she'd been perfect. The next night I got in some quality time with a fire, some scotch and some good reading.


The next morning I boarded the ferry to Kodiak. I met some great people on board, including Marcus and his friend whose name I forget. They were on their way for a weeklong bear hunt. I also met Jerry, an ex-marine who was on his way to pick up an engine. Overall, the ferry was pretty empty, and there was a lot of conversation and sharing of stories and plans among the crowd on board.

Overall it was a good trip. 9.5 hours on the ferry, and a total of about 200 miles. It was by far the farthest out to sea I'd ever been, and it was an interesting experience. While it was a beautiful day, the sea was relatively high and steady, creating a very, very regular rocking motion on the boat. About 6 hours in, most of us starting feeling less than stellar. I made it, barely, while some others did not.

Pics of the ride

Friday, May 1 (Still in Homer)

So the truck has run perfectly for the last 12,000 mileds. I have had no deadlines, no time constraints, nothing to pressure me.

I was supposed to be at the dock last night for a ferry to Kodiak Island at 8:30. 10:30 ferry, but inspections and ticketing, loading, etc. means 2 hour prep time. At 7:45, as I was leaving bar (one beer only) to go to the ferry, the truck basically dies. No idle, exhaust smells like I'd shoved a bunch of plastic in it, lumpy, terrible low idle when I can get it to hold, and other misery.

Spent 2 hours tracking down issues, talking to Tom while he searched ih8mud.com for possible culprits and solutions, and mucking about in the engine. Filters, timing, oil, fuses, everything I could check I checked/replaced.

At 10:15 the truck decides its fine. I get to the ferry in time to see it depart. I have no idea why, but the truck did not want me on that ferry. I will assume it had good reason.

I spent the day in Homer, met a Toyota guy and chatted with him a bit, saw the Pratt Museum here in town, hung out on the beach, generally tourist stuff. Not a bad time at all. I'm on a 10:00 AM ferry tomorrow, provided the truck agrees with my decision, meaning I'll be there at 8. However, as it's May rather than April, the trip will be $80 less, and the daytime boat means I will get great views and make a day of it.

I promised the truck I'd split the $80 with her.

The closest I want to be to a bear. If you see more pics like this, I was not a willing participant.

Thursday, April 30 (Homer)

So here I am at the Homer "Save-U-More". They have a good internet connection and don't mind my hanging around, so here I am.

Stopped off at the pawn shop and found an unplayed copy of the Strawberry Alarm Clock "Incense and Peppermints." Also got a shell holder to go on the butt of the gun. So far I haven't needed it. Hopefully that's a trend that will continue.

I'm boarding a ferry for Kodiak Island tonight at 10:30. The initial plan was to go from Homer to Kodiak, then over to Valdez. Turns out the only ferry transport to Valdez goes through Whittier, which has been effectively cut off from civilization by a rock slide on one side and ice on the other. Sooo...I'm over in Kodiak until Monday, then back here, and driving up and across the lower part of Alaska. Kodiak will mark the end point of the trip, after which I'm heading home. Albeit the long way. It's been incredible, and I'm looking forward to a few days of isolation and contemplation on Kodiak. I've found myself slowing down a lot more as I travel down the Kenai and nature becomes a more prominent player in this story. I'm looking forward to finding some scenic overlooks and setting up a chair for a while. As I get closer to the turn-around point, the reality of heading back is coming more into focus as well. The pros (Becca, parents, friends and NY in general) and the cons (looking for a job) are all coming back. Well, I can shut out the cons for a while longer and focus on the pros to provide motivation for the long drive back. And perhaps some more shenanigans will ensue while en route.

I saw some eagles on the Homer spit today, which I thought were beautiful. I'll leave you with some pics.

Eagles

Tuesday, April 28 - Wednesday, April 29 (Cooper Landing and down to Homer)

On Tuesday, given the previous night's shenanigans, We woke up around noon. Stumbled down to the Sunrise Cafe, where I met Chris' mom Libby. Wonderful woman, and we chatted through breakfast (lunch).

Headed back to Chris' place and did some work on his house (not as much as we'd intended, for various reasons, mostly the weather). We kicked back and enjoyed some more beers, and his friend Julia came over. Had a bit of a target shooting contest with her beautiful 22, and sat back down to enjoy one of the warmest days this year in Alaska.

Later on Sean came over with some yearling Moose meat. We threw the grill together, made some turkey burgers, some moose burgers, and yes, more beer. Chris' brother stopped by with a sweet GMC 2500 HD (new that day) and we admired for a bit.

night and back to the truck for another good sleep.

The next day we actually woke up early. Me because I needed to hit the road and Chris because he and Sean were going to try to get some work done on the house. It was another beautiful day, so I'm not sure the plan materialized...

On the way out of Cooper Landing, I drove down Skilack Lake road, recommended by Chris. I'm glad I did. I stopped for about 45 minutes and just sat looking out over a valley with some streams that fed into the lake. I saw my first bear! He and I shared a moment, then I remembered my camera and he decided to take off. So here's some bear ass.



I also watched some eagles play in the sky above the valley, soaring and diving on the wind. They really are an incredible sight.





I drove down through Soldotna, did some laundry and took a shower. Many places have a "pay for a shower" option in AK, which makes getting around and avoiding motels fairly easy. Sleeping in a tent or a truck is much easier when you either have showered or know that one is not that far off.

Had some good Mexican food in Soldotna. I was really concerned about my ability to get good food on the trip, and for the most part those fears were unfounded. Each town has at least one place that will serve good food all year long, and larger places typically have a mexican joint and maybe an asian place. Thai is popular. I'm not comparing the variety to NY, but rest assured that it's much better than you (or maybe just me) would think.

Out of Soldotna I really saw a lot of spring thaw. It's incredible the feeling in the land right now. The earth is softening up and coming alive, the snow is melting, and the animals are starting to come out. The change really fills up your senses; you can hear avalanches as snow melts and comes off the mountains, and ice cracking on lakes. The smell of wet earth and plants is in the air, and there's a humidity that escapes as the ground softens up. Fields are under water, streams and rivers are all overflowing, and trees are opening up as well. I wish I could see it go from January to July, and see the change in the landscape from trough to crest. Another time.

It's hard for me to admit when I'm wrong, but in this case it's deserved. Dad, after all these years, it turns out you were right.


The moose is, in fact, loose.




Got into Homer and crashed on the beach out on the Homer Spit, a mile jetty out into Cook Inlet. Set up the tent and lit a fire after scavenging some driftwood. Coleman fire sticks are indispensible. Gone are the days in the early part of the trip where I'd be whittling wood shavings to get some tinder, then going through a book of matches to get that lit. These things are essential for any camping trip. Driftwood makes a great briny, rich smell as it burns, and provided a great end to the evening.


Full set of pics

Sunday, April 26 - Monday, April 27 (Anchorage and Anchorage - Cooper Landing)

On Sunday I rolled into Anchorage. I found a great Archery shop started by two guys recently - Screaming Eagle Archery in Wasilla. We were talking about my bow and how it got stolen, and they offered their services in helping get me back where I was.

I stopped in Anchorage and had some Great Mexican food, then crashed. The next day I saw Anchorage, replenished some supplies, and planned for the next phase (down the Kenai peninsula). I then heard back from my insurance company, who gave me the go-ahead to build a new bow. I drove back to Wasilla, only to find the store closed. I then engaged in some detective work. I got the name of the owner from a plaque in the shop, and got his home number. His wife picked up, and gave me his cell. I then called him, and told him that I was able to go ahead with the bow, and that since he had been good to me the day before, the sale was his if he wanted it. As the shop just opened a week ago, and he had been in and out of it all day doing chores and cleaning, he told me he'd be right over. Tony and Wayne helped build my bow and tune it with me and for me for the next 3 hours. I got to know them a bit, and they offered to take me out hunting when I come back. As Becca and I are planning to come up to go fly fishing with Tom and his wife, that might actually happen. Heading out with those guys would be great. They were solid guys who really knew their stuff, and I had a great time getting to know them.

With the new bow in hand, I set off down the Kenai for Cooper landing. Tom, who I'd spent time with in Utah, has a cabin there, but he wouldn't be in town for another month. He did however set me up with a friend of his, Chris. Chris offered to host me for a few days, and I rolled in on Monday night.

The trip from Anchorage to Cooper Landing was amazing. I drove past Cook Inlet, and had terrific views across it for most of that time. The tide was coming in as well. Apparently Cook inlet has the most drastic tidal flow in the world? It was like a wave coming in, with amazing force behind it. I stopped at the same turnout as a couple who were riding a harley, and shared a few words with them. She's moving from Anchorage to South Carolina shortly, and they were taking some time to enjoy Alaska together before she left.

I also saw my first wildlife! Finally saw a live moose. Most in Alaska would consider them pests (one sign read 322 killed so far on the highways, and I know that each moose probably totalled a car). But I was excited.

When I got to Chris' place, it was a bit late, and he had been doing some work on his house, so we cracked a few beers (brought some with me as they make great houseguest gifts). Then we cracked a few more, and just got good old-fashioned drunk by the fire. All in all a great time. Met his 14 year old Rottweiler Althena, one of the sweetest dogs I've ever seen. Crashed in the truck, as Chris is living in a 1 room cabin while he finishes the house. Slept really well. I've got sleeping in the truck down to a science these days.

Pics of the ride are here! Go Homer Save-U-More!